The Way of Saint Benedict

The path is away from the main tourist routes and mostly leads across mountainous and hilly areas, often in shady woodland. It winds 305 kilometres across the Apennine Mountains between 400 and 1000 metres high and is a mix of nature and culture, passing through small villages. On the way, you will come across villages perched on hilltops that are still being reconstructed after the 2016 earthquake, jasmine hedges, olive orchards, and award-winning gelato. Lodgings include beautiful monasteries, convents, and hermitages.

You start your hike in Norcia, Benedict’s birthplace in the Sibillini Mountains, at the foot of the statue of Saint Benedict in the main square. The village is still being rebuilt after the 2016 earthquake. Before you leave, pick up your pilgrim’s passport at D’Angelisa Bar and Bistro.

From Norcia, the trail leads to Cascia on the first stage, the home of Saint Rita. It is a largely wooded path, and you can visit the colourful Basilica of Saint Rita when you arrive. The route merges for a while with the Saint Rita’s Path, partly carved into rock along the Corno river. The next day, it then continues from Saint Rita around the mountain to Roccaporene, a tourist trap for followers of Saint Rita. You’ll also get to go up to the prettily renovated village of Monteleone di Spoleto.

Stage three is quite flat, as the path goes through villages into the province of Lazio at Leonessa at the foot of the Reatini mountains and follows the Corno river for a while. But the flatness is good for resting, because the next day you’ll reach the trail’s highest point at 1500 metres. This more challenging stage goes across the Reatini mountain range through beech forest to Poggio Bustone, overlooking the Valle Santa.

Stage five descends gently through to Cantalice, where you climb up through the village which clings to the mountainside. The path then descends into Rieti, a larger town situated at the bottom of the Valle Santa. The following day’s path is an easy one which, near the end, climbs to the fortress town of Rocca Sinibalda, with amazing views.

From there, you walk along the River Turano in the valley and then along the shore of Lake Turano to a pretty and medieval castle: Castel di Tora. Stage eight is a steep climb over a pass. It’s a challenging stage with breathtaking views over the lake and countryside, through the charming village of Pozzaglia Sabina to Orvinio. But the climbs don’t stop there. The next day is also a challenging hike, where you will reach 970 metres. The tail crosses through the domain of golden eagles in the Lucretili park and has distant views of Mounts Ruffi and Simbruini.

Stage 10, the longest on the trail, follows the Aniene River valley into Subiaco. Here you can stay at the Monastery of Santa Scolastica (Benedict’s sister). It’s worth having a rest day in Subiaco to visit the Sacro Speco, the oldest Benedictine monastery in the world. It clings to the cliffside above the grotto where Benedict lived as a hermit for three years. You can also split this stage into two. Once you’ve rested up, the trail climbs gently most of the next day and follows the Aniene River again. Visit the turquoise Laghetto di San Benedetto on a short side trip on stage 11. You cross wide stretches of farmland to reach Trevi Nel Laxio.

The trail then passes through Guarcino and Vico to Collepardo, with a fabulous situation under the mountains and above a gorge. On the way, you pass through the Arco di Trevi, a Roman stone archway in the middle of the forest. On stage 13, the route follows quiet country roads and may still have a detour due to a landslide. Check the official GPX and website for updated information.

At the end of easy Stage 14, which also follows quite a few roads, you reach Arpino, birthplace of Cicero. It is set on two hills and on the way, at Isola Liri, you can admire the waterfall in the centre of town.

In the last two stages, the trail takes you through picturesque Civitavecchia where you pass the Tower of Cicero, to Roccasecca. You follow a long and isolated, but beautiful, track which passes a solar farm. And finally, you will follow the Liri Valley along roads until you take tracks up to the abbey of Monte Cassino, which Saint Benedict founded and where he died. Just before the abbey, you pass a local brewery that makes for a great place to celebrate your pilgrimage.

The best time of the year to hike the Way of Saint Benedict is in spring or autumn. Summer can be very hot and you can encounter snow in winter. But by May, most of the snow has melted in the Apennines. This depends on the year, so check the snow levels before you go. Spring flowers are abundant in May and early June.

Although this is not a high-altitude trek, you need to be prepared for rain and cold, as well as strong sunshine and the occasional thunderstorm. If you are staying in basic accommodations like the monasteries or convents, take a sleeping bag liner. You should also really bring walking poles to save your knees. A backpack of about 35 litres or more should suffice. Keep clothes to a minimum but take rain gear and a fleece for cooler evenings. Make sure you can carry enough water, around 2-3 litres per day if it’s hot, and sun cream. Also take a simple medical kit with an emergency blanket, blister plasters of various sizes, painkillers, other plasters, and tape.

The trail is mostly medium and easy, with an average ascent of about 460 metres. Some stages are easy and nearly flat. The trail has occasional steep sections, but the gradient of most days is quite gentle. It is also possible to halve the longer stages or cut two long stages into three.