Travessa dels 3 Refugis

You start next to the train station of Queralbs. From the beginning, the trail offers views of beautiful mountain peaks. After you cross a wooden bridge you will see the Salt del Grill waterfall. The trail continues into rocky terrain surrounded by narrow paths and open green fields full of vibrant yellow and pink flowers.

When you’re climbing further over stony paths you will be treated with the most amazing view of the big green valley. Because of the contrast of green fields with many white rocks, you’ll almost miss the hut Refugi de Coma de Vaca. It looks so small from a distance. We chose to stay the night here tomorrow, so we can hike further along the river. You may spot some groundhogs or deer here!

It’s a lot of climbing over mossy hills. Luckily, you will descend after that to one of the oldest mountain huts in the Pyrenees: Refugi d’Ulldeter. Fun fact: every room has the name of a mountaintop in the area. In the evening you’ll get proper food which you share with fellow hikers at the big tables.

The second stage takes you along the Ter River, ascending through the Vallter 2000 ski area to the ruins of the old Ulldeter hut. The path leads to Les Marmotes with a challenging climb to the Geganta pass. Stunning views are guaranteed! The descent into the serene, green valley of France involves careful navigation and some river crossings.

The last part of this stage continues alongside the Carançà River and many beautiful lakes, such as Estany Gran de Carançà and Estany Negre, ideal spots for breaks. A final climb reveals the breathtaking Estany Blau, with its clear blue waters. You reach the highest point of the day at the Carançà pass. The descent into the green valley ends at the Refugi de Coma de Vaca.

To start the third and final stage, you will follow the historic Camí dels Enginyers Path. This path was initially built for dam construction (but that project never happened). After that you get some climbs to the Coll dels Homes pass, providing beautiful views. Is it a blue and clear sky? Then you might see Queralbs in the distance. The descent involves rocky paths aided by metal steps and chains, with sights of waterfalls and beautiful landscapes.

Next up you’ll arrive at Vall de Núria. It’s a popular hiking destination in the summer and a ski resort in the winter. It holds significant symbolic value for Catalans. The Mare de Déu de Núria sanctuary is a significant pilgrimage site. Located in the eastern part of the Catalan Pyrenees, Vall de Núria is accessible only by foot or train. An interesting place to check out, but also a bit touristy. The hike continues with several waterfalls, such as the famous Cua de Cavall. Finally, you hike through a forested section leading back to the small village of Queralbs, marking the end of the Travessa dels 3 Refugis.

The best time of the year to hike the Travessa dels 3 Refugis is from June through September. Keep in mind you’ll need to be prepared for multiple weather conditions. During summer time it can be very hot, but we experienced some rain and snow fields in June. Probably the best time is early September when the trail is less crowded and the weather circumstances are mostly favorable. Always check the trail conditions and weather forecasts before setting out on the trails in the Pyrenees.

The trail has some challenging parts, so you have to be in good condition and have some hiking experience. The trail is marked but it’s highly recommended to download the GPX and know how to navigate in this area of the Pyrenees. Bring the proper equipment with you, such as solid shoes, layers, and hiking poles. Check out the full hut-to-hut hike gear list.