PR 17 Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal

PR 17 starts next to the regional road ER 105, at Lombo do Mouro. From the road, the trail quickly drops into the forest near the levadas. This first section follows the levada closely, with water flowing next to the path. The walking here is mostly level, and the route is clear. You pass through forest areas where the path narrows, and the levada is cut into the hillside.

After some time, the trail reaches tunnel sections carved into the rock. These tunnels are long and dark, and a headlamp is needed. Water often drips from the ceiling, the floor can be wet, and the path is very narrow next to the tunnel walls. Because of this, it’s helpful to put a rain cover on your backpack to protect it from dripping water and scraping the walls. Once you’re through the tunnels, the trail leaves the levada and begins to climb. This is the most demanding part of the route. It is also the most rewarding part of the hike, as you’ll come to the best views of the hike here. The path switches from levada walking to a steeper mountain trail, gaining height as it heads toward the ridge.

As you climb, the forest becomes more open. The route leads onto higher ground where the terrain changes and the views open up. This section connects the two levadas and explains the length and elevation difference of the hike. Eventually, the trail reaches the old levada that runs at a higher altitude. You’ll hike on a shrubbed ridge with views on both sides and in front of you. Here, there should be views of the Ribeira Brava valley with Pico Ruivo, and Pico do Areeiro as you hike. Absolutely magical! And on misty or foggy days, seeing the clouds move between the peaks is very special too. From here, the path levels out again and follows the levada as it continues across the mountainside.

Along this part of the route, you pass small waterfalls and streams that feed the levada. The trail then continues until it reaches the end point near Encumeada, where it meets road access again. From here, some people walk alongside the road to complete the loop and end back at the road where they parked their car, which can add about 4 kilometers to the hike.

The best times of the year to hike the PR 17 are spring and autumn. While you can hike in Madeira all year, the spring and autumn have the best chances of being dry. PR 17 is not a particularly busy trail, but it also avoids the higher crowds that come to Madeira in the summer. Locals like to hike the trails in the winter as well, but it is riskier to travel for hiking in those months, as they can be rainier. However, it’s a risk all year round, and the weather usually doesn’t drop below 10°C in the winter, so it’s a possibility.

The Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal is a challenging trail that will have you out all day. To prepare for the PR 17, you should pack for the day hike with plenty of water, snacks, a headlamp, and layers. You’ll want to have waterproof gear, including a hardshell rain jacket and rain pants, along with shoes with good grip. Most people we’ve spoken with have been happy they brought trekking poles, as the stairs can be brutal on the knees after a while. The poles help with balance and take the strain off your joints.

Additionally, you should download the GPX for the PR 17. It’s always good to have a backup to the trail signs that will keep you on the right path. The PR network is very full on the island, and there are always detours you can take. The GPX will keep you on the right track.

The PR 17 Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal is a difficult trail. This is due to its length, elevation gain, and the potential for bad weather while hiking. While this is a fantastic alternative for the PR 1 on Madeira, it is more difficult. With 15 kilometers point-to-point, you will be out for the whole day, likely around 6-7 hours if you keep a good pace. The trail is very steep with many stairs, so you should be reasonably fit to enjoy it. Finally, the weather on Madeira is known for changing quickly and often. If and when it rains, be careful on the stairs and near the levadas, as they can become very slippery. Bring trekking poles and shoes with good grip. No sneakers for this one!