Wales Coast Path

The Wales Coast Path is far from a stroll along a beach. This diverse trail is an epic adventure of rugged cliffs, hidden coves, seaside towns, industry – both old and new, ports, wide sandy beaches, winding estuaries, agricultural land, incredible rock formations, dunes, and even neolithic burial grounds. It will certainly use all your leg muscle groups, varying from flat and easy promenades to steep ascents and descents into every little cove. The trail closely follows the coast for most of the route, but there are inland sections to circumnavigate estuaries and private land. Though minimal, there is some road walking.

The first section eases you into the trail, with miles of flat straightforward path following the River Dee. It’s a good section to run if you’re interested in fastpacking. The start itself is somewhat in the middle of nowhere, right on the England/Wales border along the River Dee but it’s a lovely 3.2-kilometer / 2-mile canal walk from Chester city center to reach the official start. Once the River Dee reaches the sea, you’ll enjoy beach and dune walking before reaching the seaside resorts of the North Wales coast, starting with Prestatyn. You’ll follow a flat promenade for miles before reaching the first hilly section: the Great Orme, a limestone headland. On the other side is the charming castle town of Conwy, with the rest of this section a flat and simple path between the train line and the sea. Note – despite this section being popular with tourists, there are very few campsites as most ‘campsites’ are for holiday park homes and don’t allow tent pitches.

The second section starts after urban Bangor, crossing the striking Menai Bridge. It will take you to the Isle of Anglesey where you can follow either the official WCP dragon shell waymarkers or the IoACP blue tern (bird) waymarker – both follow the same route. The Anglesey section is quiet with a wild feel – different from the built-up North Wales section. Here, you’ll find wide, empty beaches, wildflower-lined paths, hidden coves, sleepy harbors, lighthouses, churches, grassy headlands, and signs of the old mining industry. It’s a quiet and very beautiful section. A mix of campsites and wild camping will be needed here, and away from Menai Bridge and Holyhead, there is little public transport.

The third section is beautiful and underrated, continuing the wild feel of Anglesey. Flat and easy paths to begin, and passing through the quirky arty castle town of Caernarfon. There are some good, long, beach walking sections on the Llyn Peninsula, but some long road sections too – although for a lot of these sections, you can continue along the beach instead of following the ‘official’ road route. The Llyn Peninsula also becomes quite hilly, with the sudden steepness around Yr Eifl as a surprise! This is a great section for wild camping and wildlife, from wild goats to seals basking on beaches.

After Porthmadog, the Llyn Peninsula turns inland into Meirionnydd, the western border of Eryri (Snowdonia National Park). Meirionnydd is mostly farmland and only meets the coast a few times. Here, wild camping will be difficult – though landowners may permit you to pitch on their land. This section finishes in the arty town of Machynlleth, which also has great transport routes.

The fourth section of Ceredigion is a varied part of the WCP. Starting inland, it takes a day to return to the coast again and enjoy cliff coastline paths and harbor towns – this section is a mix of rugged and bustle, with extensive views of the whole coastline from Llyn to Pembrokeshire. The main roads running next to the coast path have buses connecting the towns (though no trains apart from Aberystwyth) and a mix of campsites and wild camping.

The fifth section is one of the most loved sections of the WCP on account of its beauty and varied geology. Apart from the odd urban area, it’s still a quiet section to walk. Lots of ascent and descent, the path hugs the coastline very closely – which means going up and down into every cove. In this section, you can expect long wild beaches, rocky cliffs, and natural sea arches. It’s also a good mix of remote (make sure you have enough water around Strumble Head) and bustling port towns, so plenty of resupply options, as well as campsites and wild camping opportunities. Note – there are some protected areas in this section, e.g., Barafundle Bay. Please don’t wild camp here.

If you are walking in early summer, a detour to Bosherton lily ponds is recommended – it’s a short and beautiful walk from Broad Haven South. Also, look out for St Govans Chapel – it’s built into the rock and very easy to miss, but is a highlight of this section. There are also dangers to be aware of in this section, please see the ‘Good to Know’ section below, noting tidal crossings and the Castlemartin military firing range.

The sixth section in Carmarthenshire starts strong as a continuation from Pembrokeshire, but this section in general doesn’t stick to the coast and there is a large amount of inland walking. The tantalizing beach past Pendine is blocked by a military firing range and the route detours inland. There are also some long inland and estuary sections following the Afon Tywi to Carmarthen. Lots of countryside walking – fields, woodlands, and villages, with services at the villages. There are buses and even ferries to cross between Llansteffan and Ferryside to skip a day’s walking if you’re not a purist. If section hiking the WCP, it is often combined with the Gower & Swansea Bay section.

The seventh section through the Gower peninsula is a particular highlight of the southern section of the Wales Coast Path. Extensive views, huge golden sand beaches, rugged cliffs and coves, and charming villages, before reaching the busy city of Swansea at the end, an ideal place to restock and rest (though bear in mind you’ll need to find non-camping accommodation). The Gower is one of the last ‘wild’ places of the WCP as the southern section becomes more industrialized, though it’s also well-serviced by little villages, good bus routes, and camping options.

Finally, section eight is the most urban/industrialized section of the Wales Coast Path, taking in three large cities of Swansea, Cardiff, and Newport, though you don’t venture into the cities themselves. There are industrial works, power stations, etc., but there are seaside resorts still, and plenty of areas of countryside and wetlands joining it. This is a built-up area, so plenty of options for food, buses, and trains, though camping becomes sparse. You venture down the mouth of the River Severn, edging closer to the coast of England, and eventually reaching the Wales/England border in Chepstow, beside the tidal River Wye.

The Wales Coast Path is open all year but the best time to walk it is summer, when the weather is more stable – though in Wales, it can rain any time and you must be prepared with waterproof clothing. Certain seaside resort areas such as Colwyn Bay will be busy but it doesn’t take long to reach a peaceful place again. I walked the Anglesey Coast Path over sunny summer weekends and national holidays, and was surprised by how few people I saw.

This is considered a safe path but there are risks to be aware of. The path can cut close to crumbling cliffs, so you’ll need to be aware of crack lines and keep clear. Do not camp around these areas, and don’t pitch on beaches under cliffs. If you are camping on beaches, be aware of tide times (you can Google these by searching [place name] + tide times) and look out for a line of seaweed on the beach to show where the tide rises to, although spring tides can be much higher. You’ll need to be aware of tide times for tidal crossings too, more about this in the ‘good to know’ section below. In an emergency, dial 999 and ask for the coastguard.

There is a military firing range at Castlemartin (Pembrokeshire) and that section of the path will be closed if there is a firing scheduled (more about this in the ‘good to know’ section below). If the range is closed to the public, there will be red flags flying. Under no circumstances enter this section if it is closed.

Welsh wildlife is harmless but take care around cows – the path may cut through agricultural land. Cows are curious creatures, if you run, they will follow. If you find yourself being followed by cows, do not run. Stop and face them, wave your arms around and make noise – they are scared and will likely flee.

The weather changes fast so be prepared with your gear – take waterproof clothing, warm layers, and spare socks. It can also get surprisingly hot – wear a hat and take suncream.

Lastly, I hiked this trail as a woman alone. I applied common sense and never felt concerned for my personal safety. Pre-book accommodation in advance in urban areas for peace of mind.