Vanoise hut-to-hut

You start your Vanoise adventure with a long walk to a higher altitude. The forest and mountain pasture paths are easy, but under the unforgiving French sun, they are still quite a challenge. The good news: once you’ve reached the hut at the end of stage one, there won’t be much more ascending on the rest of the trail. The sunrise over the mountain tops on the other side of the valley, seen from Refuge du Grand Bec, is a great reward for your efforts.

The second stage is spectacular from start to end. Walk under an almost vertical rock wall between massive boulders that have broken in two. Cross a col into a high valley filled with loose rocks, and another col treating you to different mountain views. Follow a path on the mountainside along ice-blue pools at the bottom of snowfields. Use the stepping stones to cross the very shallow Lac des Vaches. A last ascent of the day leads you past Lac Long to the recently modernized Refuge du Col de la Vanoise. Don’t go to bed right after dinner, but go for an evening stroll in the direction of the sunset. There is often a large group of ibex grazing the plateau, and you can see them from above.

Start the third stage with a refreshing dip in the Lac Rond along the path from the refuge. It’s mirroring the high tops at the horizon, making it one of the most dreamy spots to take a morning dip. Follow the path, curving between large boulders. On your left, you will see a valley with dark rubble slopes, making you doubt whether you unwittingly traveled to Iceland overnight. Walk past more lakes and admire the glaciers of the Vanoise nature reserve. Next, you cross the Glacier River by a decent bridge and say hi to the many chamois while you continue your way to Refuge de l’Arpont. The views from the dining room and the terrace will provide you with panoramic views from wherever you are.

The fourth stage is a long, steep descent. You could make this stage longer by following the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise a bit further before starting your descent. Do check if that works out with (public) transport from your endpoint to accommodation nearby. The more you descend, the greener and more biodiverse the landscape becomes. It feels like an oasis in a desert of rock. Listen to the sounds of the insect choir in the pastures and follow the river to the small town of Val-Cenis.

The best time to hike this Vanoise hut-to-hut tour in the Vanoise is the height of summer. In July and August, the chance that snow is covering the paths is the lowest. This region is not known for heavy thunderstorms, but you are still in the mountains and should be careful. The people running the huts will communicate the weather forecast for the next day during dinner. Be extra careful in June and September, when the huts might still be open, but snowfall might force you to change your plans. Also, keep in mind that navigating these trails is a lot harder and possibly unsafe when low-hanging clouds cause poor visibility.

Summer days might be quite hot, with not a cloud in the sky. Bring a towel and a swimsuit if you want to take a quick dip in one of the mountain lakes along stages 2 or 3. These stages are busier than the other two, so you might have some company.

This route is beginner- and vertigo-friendly. There are no technically challenging paths, but you should still prepare properly. Train for steep and long uphills (day one), wear shoes or boots with proper profile, take a map, and keep an eye on the weather forecast.

Phone signal is patchy to non-existent, and not all mountain huts offer charging points. Take powerbanks or a solar charger and save maps in wayfinding apps offline. The path takes you to high elevation, so check the snow conditions before you set off. Bring plenty of food and water, because there are no shops on the way. There are good meals available in each of the huts, although you should bring your own snacks. Book the mountain huts in time, because there are no alternative huts when one of them is full upon arrival.