Pembrokeshire Coast Path

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is an iconic trail through the most beautiful coastline in the UK. Beginning at the official start point in St. Dogmaels, you’ll hike toward Newport during the first stage, slowly making your way into the trees and away from the towns. The trail in the North is very dramatic with dark and plunging cliffs, rough waves pushing up against them, and blustery plateaus. The path is exposed in the first days, and this is where the most difficult climbs are. The northern sections are also much more remote. There will be campsites, but usually just one or two for each stage, and very few food markets. You’ll need to carry more and will be able to enjoy a rare kind of quiet on these stages.

Around the time you reach St. David’s, the first large town after a while, the trail will become more popular for beach-going tourists. It’s still not overwhelmingly busy, as there isn’t much room for large crowds. However, you will see an increase in day-hikers, campervans, and shops as you go. Here, the views become more tropical, with light blue waters, sandstone cliffs, and dolphins and seals playing near the coves. When you descend to different beaches, there will often be ice cream and coffee trucks waiting for you, plus lots of opportunities to swim. This gives it a really fun, vacation feel. The trail also evens out in this middle section, with fewer hills/climbs.

Next, you’ll hike toward Milford Haven. This is where it gets a bit tricky; the trail becomes less pleasant, and you have the option to skip ahead. The path is very industrial from Milford Haven to Angle (about 30km), with oil rigs and refineries as your main views. It is possible to skip ahead using the bus, and it is very common to do so. We skipped to Hundleton and wished we’d taken the bus a few stops further to Angle, as the trail stayed on the road for the majority of the time between the two towns.

However, once you reach Angle, the trail reverts back to its beautiful self and eases you onward to your final days. From around Angle, the trail begins to reintroduce the hills that were so common at the beginning of the trail. While less steep, they’ll still mark your days and give you a good challenge to overcome.

Finally, you will reach Amroth, a sweet village along the beach, where you can celebrate your victory. The official endpoint plaque is at the very end of the town, across the street from the New Inn. There aren’t any campsites at Amroth, so you can either stay at an inn or B&B, detour to camp in one of the nearby towns, or take public transportation to your next destination.

The best time of the year to hike the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is between June and August. While it doesn’t get too hot in the region, with a normal high of 25°C, it does get very rainy and windy. The trail is characterized by its western and southwestern winds, which can be pleasant on a hot day and incredibly unpleasant on a rainy one. It’s best to base your trip on the forecast for the year when deciding which summer month to hike.

To be safe on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, you should prepare for long days without much water. There will be options to refill at the campsites each morning, but there is not much freshwater along the trail. There are a few streams that show up on the map, but these are usually very low and extremely polluted or difficult to reach (i.e., climbing down a cliff to access them). On the second half of the trail, there will likely be more coffee or ice cream trucks you’ll pass where you can buy water, but it’s best not to rely on these.

Additionally, there is little cover on the trail, so it’s good to have weather-resistant clothing and gear you trust for windy or rainy days, and enough sun protection for clear days.

Finally, make sure you pack enough food. Especially in the northern stages, the markets and restaurants are rare, so you’ll need to look ahead on your itinerary to pack enough for the days to come.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is moderately difficult because of continuous steep hill climbs throughout the trail. While the elevation changes are small, and the highest point is only 160M, there are many climbs throughout the day! You’ll hike up and down the cliffs daily, which can become tiring if you’re not expecting it. While the climbs aren’t strenuous, they may surprise you for a coastal walk.