Omine Okugakemichi

You’ll start by passing the Kansai region and through the Kii Mountains further south. The highlights of this stage are the temple at the peak of Mount Omine, the area around Misen Hut (especially the sunrise), Mount Hakkyogatake (the highest peak in the Kii Mountain range), and Mount Shakagatake. Along the route, there are 75 Nabiki (Shinto shrines) and sacred areas for Shugendo practitioners.

The hike is usually done starting at Yoshino and ending in Hongu, however, it can be done in both directions. It originated during the final years of the Asuka period (634-701) in Japan, when the founder of Shugendo En no Ozunu, also known as En no Gyoja, opened a religious center in the Omine mountain range and the route started being used as a pilgrimage and as training for Shugendo monks and followers.

Stage one, going from the Yoshino train station, you’ll want to start with a visit to the information center, as they can provide some last-minute information and register you for hiking the trail. The trail goes straight up from the start and continues gaining altitude until the top of Mount Omine. The first 5-6 kilometers are on roads and you’ll pass several huts throughout the middle section. Before reaching the huts below Mount Omine, there are sheltered areas where you can set camp. It is recommended to start as early as possible so that you can take breaks and rest on day one. From the top of Omine, sometimes it is possible to see Mt. Fuji if the weather is clear.

Throughout the hike, there are several steep up-and-down sections, and even though on day two you’re mostly climbing, it is no exception. The second day starts at the top of Mount Omine and finishes near the top of Mount Misen, at Misen hut. The views on the second day are breathtaking and at night if the sky is clear, stargazing is a great option.

After leaving the Misen Hut on stage three, there will be little to no human contact for the next 2 days, so getting a water refill at the hut is highly recommended, it costs 100 Yen for 1 liter. Immediately after leaving the hut, you’ll hike down into a Valley between Misen Mountain and Hakkyogatake, and then the route summits Hakkyogatake. From here wildlife is more common, from deer, mountain goats, boars, and snakes, to the possibility of bears.

After passing Shakagatake (one of the most technical ascents and descents of the route, from this point the route will be mainly losing elevation), you can stop for the night at Jinsennoshuku (Blue hut near a temple – when I visited in June 2024, it was slightly damaged from the inside, not sure about the current condition). This will be where you sleep if you plan to do the route in 6 days, which is recommended. However, if you’re hoping to finish in 5 days, it is recommended to keep going to Jikyo no Shuku. This section should not be underestimated, as it passes from the top of 10 low peaks of the Kii Mountains and you’ll need to push hard with few breaks to make it to the hut before dark. Near Jikyo no Shuku (400 meters off course) you can refill your water from a stream, and the hut has the facilities to boil it.

The two best spots to take a rest are at the peak of Hakkyogatake and Shakagatake, where you can enjoy the best views of the surrounding area.

After Jikyo no Shuku (1,052m), there are long sections of dense forests now that the elevation is lower than the first three days. During the first 10 kilometers of the day, you’ll pass the last two huts available on the trail. From this point forward only some sections for wild camping are available and getting a water refill is challenging.

A great area to set up camp is close to the Observation tower before Tamaki Shrine. The sunset and views from the Observation tower are amazing.

On the last day, the first checkpoint is Mt.Tamaki, which is just 2 kilometers in, and then the second checkpoint is Tamaki Shrine just below the mountain on the other side. This is a great place for a final water refill.

Onward from Tamaki Shrine, the route is mainly in forested areas up until Hongu. When you arrive in Hongu, you’ll see the big Tori Gate and the beautiful sight of the village on the other side of the river. After this point, there are still a few small hills for 3.5 kilometers and then the route goes down next to the river and crosses over a bridge, the last section is 1.5 kilometers on the road in the village towards Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine.

The best time to hike the Omine Okugakemichi route of the Kumano Kodo is during spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when the weather is mild, and the landscapes are at their most beautiful. In spring, hikers can enjoy the vibrant cherry blossoms and pleasant temperatures, while autumn brings stunning foliage with cooler, comfortable conditions. These seasons offer the ideal balance for tackling this rugged pilgrimage route. Summer is typically too hot and humid, with the risk of heavy rain, and winter can be cold with snow, making the trail more challenging.

In the area, bears and boars are very common, especially in recent years. A bear bell is recommended, and you can easily buy one once you arrive in Japan. Other animals might also cause harm, like giant hornets and poisonous snakes.

The route is marked with pink strings along the way. However, there are some areas where it would be easy to get lost if you don’t have a map or a GPS. Please do not attempt this trail in bad weather or with a bad forecast, as certain sections involve climbing and scrambling to the peak of mountains, with exposure over very slippery terrain.

Hiking poles are highly recommended for balance and to avoid knee strains.

Due to ticks and other insects in the area, together with sections of dense grass in the forests, it is highly recommended to wear clothes that will cover your legs and arms. Carrying insect repellent is also recommended.

Cell phone service is very limited and thus one might want to carry a satellite device or GPS tracker.