Markha Valley Trek

The Markha Valley Trek is a well-established trail that follows the Markha River through a stunning valley in the Hemis National Park. This is a beautiful and popular trek in the Himalayas, and for good reason. First, the trail is straightforward to access from Ladakh’s capital, Leh; it’s a 2-hour taxi journey to get to the start. Second, it’s easy to navigate while on trail since there are few alternative paths and you can generally rely on following cairns and donkey droppings. And lastly, this is one of the only multi-day treks in the area that can be done independently and by staying in homestays. If you don’t fancy carrying a tent but do fancy a hiking adventure without a guide, The Markha Valley Trek comes highly recommended. It’s a spectacular valley, with incredible mountain landscapes. It feels like you might have traveled back to another time and another planet; the rock color and formations are otherworldly and the villages showcase a real sense of traditional Ladakhi culture and lifestyle.

The landscape incorporates red rock mountains, snowy peaks, and green fertile villages along the river. These stark contrasts are breathtaking. As you move through the valley you will walk through some small, remote local villages living a very traditional lifestyle. You’ll witness history and Tibetan culture from the region as you pass old gompas and monastery ruins. The locals still live off the land as much as they can, but since trekkers now regularly come through, many of the mud-brick homes have been turned into homestays. This new source of income for the locals has helped preserve their lifestyle and has meant more regular access to supplies by mules.

A guide is not necessary for this hike and you don’t need to pay for a permit (as of September 2023). The trail is safe and obvious for independent hikers to follow and, more often than not, you’ll meet other independent trekkers on the path too. However, if you’d like to experience a guided trek and wish to learn more about the local culture and history of the area then you can easily organize a guide beforehand when in Leh. From one of the travel agencies, you can have the whole trek organized for you, with a guide. Just be sure to clarify with the agency what the price includes, as some companies may not include meals etc. Prices start from around 4000 INR (45 euro) per day for this option.

Any of the agencies in Leh can also help with arranging your transport. This can be useful if you want to team up with other trekkers to split the cost of the ride. However, you can also speak with any of the taxi drivers independently and arrange your transport and organize everything yourself. The taxi costs around 3600 INR (40 euros) from Leh to the trailhead, which you can split between you and other travelers if you share the journey.

As with much of India’s infrastructure, the ongoing road construction has meant that the trailhead has moved over time, and will likely keep moving. You can start at the original starting point of Chilling or further along in Skiu or even Sara. The dirt road is extended all the way here so you can choose where you want to begin as the taxi driver will take you to any of these points, but note that the dusty dirt road isn’t the most inspiring section of the trek!

There is also an alternative start point, at Zingchen, which is a shorter distance to drive from Leh. From Zingchen you will follow the path to Rumbak and then up to Ganda La pass at 4900m and then down to Skiu to meet the Markha Valley trek. This alternative adds between 2-3 days extra onto your hike, and it’s recommended that you first acclimatize in Leh beforehand. Taxis from Leh to Zingchen cost around 1900 INR (21 euros).

The elevation isn’t too demanding for the first couple of days, just a slow inclination in the profile. The real kick-up begins when you turn away from the river towards the village of Hankarm and beyond.

For navigation, you’re unlikely to go wrong until Kongmaru Pass. There are always animal droppings along the path as the mules are so regularly passing back and forth with supplies. There are also lots of other hikers on the trail, so you’ll be able to confer with them and follow their footsteps. The trail is marked on the app maps.me which is a useful resource to have with you.

On the descent through the valley on the final day, the trail can be difficult to follow in parts. This may be due to landslides and the changing flow of the river. The trail goes up and down, quite steeply in places through the valley, and towards the end, you need to cross the river a few times. Simply follow the donkey droppings, as so many locals use the trail, and cross at safe points along the river and before long you will find your way to Chogdo where there is a homestay to either rest or drink a chai before heading back to Leh. You can either arrange your taxi pick up from here ahead of time, with the driver that dropped you at the start, or you wait to see who’s waiting at the homestay and share a lift with other trekkers.

The best time of year to hike the Markha Valley Trek is during the high season in Ladakh, between June and September. This is when you’re most likely to have clear skies, a low chance of precipitation, and relatively warm days. Beyond these months, the snow will likely make access to the roads and paths impassable.

Altitude is a factor that needs to be taken into consideration. Take time to acclimatize in Leh (3500m) before embarking on this trek. Altitude sickness can derail any high-altitude hike and leave you in a weakened stay, unable to continue. Taking a few extra days before you begin will make all the difference! Plus, it can be helpful to have extra time to source any last-minute items you need.

You’ll also want to make sure you pack appropriately for the hike. We have an essential packing list that can be applied to almost any kind of tour! You’ll want to pack as light as possible while still carrying the necessities (and maybe a luxury or two for the evenings). Your bag will feel heavier at altitude, so it’s nice to keep it as easy on yourself as possible.

Finally, especially if you hike this without a guide, make sure you’re prepared to take care of yourself. Before the trek, try brushing up on your wilderness first aid skills, double-check that your first aid kit is stocked well, and let someone know where you’re going and your anticipated return date.