Kungsleden

Though it runs through the arctic mountains of what is said to be one of the last pieces of wilderness in Europe, it goes mostly through the valleys so there is little elevation gain compared to real mountain treks. This makes it accessible for almost everyone in good shape and with some experience in multi-day hiking.

The biggest challenge of this hike is definitely the subarctic climate, which is very unpredictable and often rapidly changing. ‘Four seasons in one day ‘ should be the official trail tagline.

Starting from the North, the first section runs from Abisko to Singi or Nikkaluokta. You’re up to a great start through the Abisko National Park with its impressive river canyon and birch forest. The trail gradually ascends until you reach the Alesjaure Lake and get your first views of the mountains. After Alesjaure it goes up again, crossing boulder fields that sometimes feel like you’re walking on the surface of the moon until you reach the Tjäkta pass, the highest point of the whole trail.

This stage of Kungsleden is a very popular section hike because of its dramatic scenery, making this section the busiest of all. The Nikkaluokta to Singi part technically isn’t part of the official Kungsleden, but Nikkaluokta makes an ideal entry or exit point from the trail. It also runs by Kebnekaise, the highest mountain in Sweden, and climbing it is a popular addition to Kungsleden.

Next up is Singi/Nikkaluokta to Vakkotavare. At Singi you have the option to make the detour to Kebnekaise or move on directly to Vakkotavare. The landscape is barren and wild, running on and off mountain plateaus. At the Teusajaure Lake, your first of many boat crossings awaits: pull up your sleeves and row over yourself, or just pay the hut keeper to cross on the motor boat.

Thru-hikers will start the third section of Kungsleden with a bus ride to Saltoluokta, the entry point of this stage. The trail is interrupted at Vakkotavare by a road and another lake crossing. For section hikers, Saltoluokta is easily reachable from Galliväre. This definitely is a very wild section of Kungsleden, running partly through the untouched Sarek National Park, offering spectacular views of its often snow-peaked mountains. A lot of lake crossings are to be made by rowing or speed boat.

As a thru-hiker, make sure to resupply at Kvikkjokk mountain station, the end of section three, because there are no manned mountain huts on the fourth section between Kvikkjokk and  Ammarnas; camping gear is essential for this section. The remoteness and lack of huts make this a very quiet and likely the least-traveled part of the trail, almost only hiked by thru-hikers. Not all streams have bridges here, though some may have privately owned boat owners you can pay to go over. The trail goes up and down a lot, through valleys and over plateaus, making this a more challenging but at the same time a very unique section of the trail. It has views of the desolate landscape that stretches for miles and miles.

The last and southernmost section of Kungsleden runs from Ammarnäs to Hemavan. This fifth section is a lot greener, often running through long stretches of moorland and birch forest. A diverse fauna and flora characterize this part of the trail, as you cross the extraordinary Vindelfjällen nature reserve, one of the largest protected natural areas in Europe.

The best time of the year to hike Kungsleden is from late spring to early autumn. Most of the huts open at the end of June, after Midsummer, and close again by mid September when the first snow will appear. Even if the weather before Midsummer seems well enough and most of the snow might have melted, don’t go: spring in these mountains is also the time when reindeer calves are born. Reindeer go down to the valleys to give birth and it is of the utmost importance that they are not disturbed by hikers during this time. The presence of people can scare them, at the risk of leaving and abandoning their calves.

High season runs from mid July to mid August, with huts being fully booked most of these weeks. Also beware of the very busy Fjällraven classic, starting somewhere around the 15th of August every year.

Those wanting to avoid the bigger crowds might consider hiking in the shoulder season, each coming with its advantages and disadvantages.

Make sure your gear is up against all kinds of weather and temperatures. They càn drop below zero at night so make sure you have a well thought out sleeping system.

If you plan on staying in the huts, only a sleeping bag or bag liner is necessary since they offer blankets and pillows. Beware of the section that lacks huts though if you plan on doing a thru hike.

There is very little cell reception on the trail. Whilst all of the cabins are equipped with a satellite phone in case of an emergency, make sure you’re not using them for a phone call home every day. Wearing a small satellite communicator can be useful, especially for solo hikers, but is not a must with all the huts and other hikers being around. All of the trail is signposted very well, so getting lost is almost impossible.

To call the boats, there are signs on the trail marking the spots where there’s cell service to notify them you’re coming (recommended to avoid waiting times).