Kumano Kodo – Imperial route

The 68-kilometer Imperial Route will lead you through small picturesque villages, bamboo groves, rice fields, magical Oji’s (subsidiary shrines of the Grand Shrines), and sacred temples. Due to its popularity, hikers will have many options (authentic lodging or campsites, meal plans, luggage transfers, local guides, and a developed bus network…) to plan this pilgrimage to your preference, pace, and level of fitness.

Breakdown of the stages

The Imperial route is marked in both directions but most people walk it from East to West.

Starting in the East you’ll find Takijiri-Oji at the trailhead, one of the five important subsidiary shrines lining up the Kumano Kodo. Make sure to also pay a visit to Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center where you can buy some last-minute essentials and visit the introductory exhibition. From Takijiri-Oji the trail climbs steeply to the mountaintops. Test your faith along the way by doing the Tanai-Kaguri ritual (where one would crawl through a crack of a boulder), before heading to Takahara. This village with a population of only ~75 is also known as Kiri-no-Sato (village of the mist) since it is located on a hillside with a gorgeous view of the valley filled with terraces of rice paddies, often covered in mist.

After leaving Takahara, the trail climbs further uphill passing more rice terraces. Along the way, you’ll find Uwadawa-Jaya Teahouse Remains as the highest point of this section. It was used until 1912-1916 as an important place to rest. The next few kilometers follow the trail through thick forests, before arriving at a Michi-no-Eki (road station) where it’s possible to stack in on souvenirs, snacks, drinks, and light meals. Not long after you’ll arrive in Chikatsuya, home to the oldest Oji shrines along the route and the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Museum. 900 years ago groups of up to 300 people would stay in this important town.

The path continues by passing multiple smaller villages. Make sure to also make a brief stop at Tsugizakura-Oji, a beautiful subsidiary shrine with massive cedar trees (some with a circumference of 8m and up to 800 years old), and at Nonaka-no-Shimizu spring (the water claimed to be pure enough to directly drink it from the source). The trail then follows a bigger, paved road for a few kilometers. If desired, the paved part can be skipped by taking a bus.

After a beautiful but intense climb through forests and with amazing views from mountaintops, the trail arrives at Hosshinmon-Oji, the outermost entrance to Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine that can be reached by descending through incredible bamboo groves (don’t miss the look-out point along the way). Hongu Taisha Shrine is one of the most important grand Shrines of the Kumano Kodo since all pilgrimage routes pass this shrine. Make sure to also visit Oyunohara on the other side of the street, this is the original site of the shrine and is known for its Otorii (the biggest torii gate in Japan). A bit further down the street Kumano Hongu Heritage Center is located where you’ll find various exhibitions and tourist info.

After following the paved road to the Ukegawa trailhead (that once again, can be skipped by taking the bus), the trail climbs through the forest to Hyakken-Gura, a look-out point with a view over the rugged and numerous peaks of the Kumano region. After admiring this incredible view, the trail descends to the valley and a river before arriving at Koguchi. A little village where it’s possible to buy extra snacks and drinks.

The last stage starting from Koguchi is claimed to be the hardest of the journey with lots of elevation and no facilities along the way. This section is famous for its Dogiri-Zaka or the body-breaking slope, an 800m elevation gain over 5 kilometers. After ascending, one will be rewarded with the Funami-Toge Pass, a Pacific ocean view, perfect for a picnic. After descending through the forests and passing a park the trail finds its ending point at Kumano Nachi Taisha. A grand shrine famous for its sacred waterfall.

The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails are open year-round. One can walk it any time of year. However, since the Kii Mountain Range is sandwiched between two shores of the Pacific Ocean it’s the wettest area in Japan. Therefore it’s a sensitive area for flooding, landslides, and typhoons which is why the rainy season (June) is best to avoid.

During summer (July to September) temperatures rise and it’s very humid. During winter (December to February) the weather is cold and snow isn’t uncommon.

Spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) are the most popular seasons to hike the Kumano Kodo. The weather is mild and one will get beautiful sights on the cherry blossoms (during Spring) or the foliage (during autumn). However, the days are not as long as during summer, therefore one should start each hiking stage early.

The Kumano Kodo Imperial Route is not a technically difficult trail, however it is physically demanding. Due to its steep uphill climbs, it is important to have a good fitness level and to plan the stages accordingly.

Due to its historic background, this trail includes lots of cobblestoned paths. These cobblestones, especially when ascending or descending can become very slippery. Make sure to watch your step, and concur them at a slow pace. Hiking poles are highly recommended to ensure your balance and to avoid knee strains. The Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center sells hiking poles and other necessary gear.

In this area, there are some dangerous animals like the Japanese Pit Viper, the Giant Centipede, and the Asian Giant Hornet. You must be wary of them and watch your step. It is not advised to wear shorts and short-sleeved t-shirts. Make sure to cover your legs and arms to avoid any stings from insects and wear higher hiking shoes. Always check your shoes before putting them on since the Giant Centipede like nestling into them.

The Kii Mountain Range is normally not home to the black bear. However, the population of black bears in Japan is increasing fast and therefore there are lots of warning signs for bears on the trail. Do bring a bear bell to ensure your safety.

Cell phone service and emergency numbers are always within reach. Make sure you memorize the emergency numbers before coming to Japan.