Cape Wrath Trail

The Cape Wrath Trail is an excellent long-distance trail but be prepared. This trail is not for beginners.

Beyond having the right gear to face the rough Scottish weather, a crucial element for tackling the Cape Wrath Trail is the ability to read and navigate by using a paper map. While GPX maps are available (check the link below), they won’t guide you through the boggy Highlands. There are mostly no established paths, and all you’ll know is that you need to reach the end of the valley and climb between two “hills” to get to the other side. Something visible on a map but challenging to follow blindly with an offline GPS, especially on a stormy day without visibility. Trust me; I’ve tried it.

But as a safety backup on your phone? Absolutely!

Another factor is the trail’s wide remoteness. There are sections where you find yourself alone in the wild Highlands for about five days until you reach the next small village. Keep in mind, that this also means being far from help, and finding an escape route requires more effort than usual. And yes, you have to carry some food! The only “bigger” city you’ll cross is Ullapool (which needs prior planning) with full accommodations. You’ll find small village shops in between, offering standard local food. The good thing about Scotland: water is everywhere! Some areas even allow you to carry none at all. BUT, please don’t forget your water filter!

Yet another challenge is the tricky river crossings—countless small, wide, deep, and wild ones. Some can be very dangerous, especially after rain. Not infrequently, you’ll have to follow a river until you find a safe spot to pass, sometimes for miles.

So, let’s say…

You’ll brave remote country, rugged terrain, Scottish wind, unrelenting rain, engage in your private war against the midges, find your way, fall into muddy holes, and feel like the most adventurous person on earth… It will be tough. But it will be an adventure that will stay with you for the rest of your life!

How to Get Around

Glasgow and Edinburgh boast major international airports. Fort William, the starting point, can be easily reached by bus. Alternatively, the train journey from Glasgow to Fort William is highly recommended, offering scenic views that make the trip worthwhile in itself. Even from London, you can travel by bus.

On the Trail

Due to the remoteness of the Cape Wrath Trail, there are limited points for joining or escaping. Shiel Bridge, Kinlochewe, Dundonnell, Ullapool, Inchnadamph, Rhiconich, Kinlochbervie, and Durness are the only villages with bus services. In Scotland, hitchhiking is quite common. As a solo female traveler, I exercise caution, although I’ve been fortunate to encounter friendly people willing to offer a ride even when soaked and muddy. However, it’s a personal decision, and I would never recommend it outright.

Around Cape Wrath

Cape Wrath itself is an active military firing range. Before leaving the last village (as there will be almost no reception once around Cape Wrath), check if you are allowed to enter or if it’s closed. Or look out for red flags which are hoisted when nobody can pass.

Upon reaching Cape Wrath (Congratulations!), you have two options to return:

• During the Summer Months: An open coffee shop and a mini-bus operate from Cape Wrath to a small ferry to Durness, where bus services are available.
• Out of Season: Options are limited, and you need to walk back to the last village with a bus service (1-2 days). Another option is to walk to Durness using the 4×4 track until the ferry, but this entails navigating very boggy and rough terrain around the bay (1-2 days).

Similar to many other countries, the optimal time for hiking is during the summer months (April-September). However, Scotland offers a unique proposition with its landscape dominated by hills, lots of hills! The highest mountain, Ben Nevis, stands at 1345m (4413ft). So yes, Scotland is hikable all year long, and each season brings its advantages and challenges.

Summer Months: During the summer, you are blessed with long days, providing ample time to cover your distance without feeling rushed. It’s an opportunity to enjoy lochs for a swim and have leisurely lunches with scenic views. Especially in certain highland areas, hiking during the dark should be avoided due to boggy terrains that require special attention. The summer months generally offer the driest days, with temperatures reaching about 18-20°C (65-68°F). However, Scotland’s abundance of water, including rivers, lakes, and marshes, brings its biggest challenge: MIDGES! Tiny little mosquitoes that can be quite bothersome and sting.

Winter Months: On the upside, winter months are free of midges, but there’s a trade-off. Expect a lot of rain, and snow is possible from the end of October until March. The days become significantly shorter, nights colder, and storms more frequent, making camping more challenging. But in the winter months, you have the opportunity to see the country with fresh eyes as trees and fields undergo a transformation, changing their colors from green to warm orange all over.

In conclusion, a very German piece of advice from my side: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong gear!” Scotland will be your grandest adventure with the right equipment.

Ensure you’ve chosen the right season for you.

For Summer Months:

• Don’t forget a mosquito net for your face, thin long sleeves, trousers (no worries, Scottish summers rarely exceed 20°C), or insect repellent.
• Opt for a tent that is mosquito-safe.
• Since it rains about 182 days in Scotland (lucky you, this part of Scotland counts as one of the driest), a rain jacket is essential, even in summer. You will never be safe from getting wet.

For Winter Months:

• Always pack a hardshell raincoat and rain trousers – you will get wet!
• Depending on your chosen trail, include an ice axe and crampons.
• A tent is often inevitable, especially in remote areas where bothies or village accommodations may not be accessible. During winter, storms can be intense, so ensure your tent has sufficient safety lines. If not, your tent may break or fly away. A dangerous situation in which none of us wants to find ourselves.

General Gear:

• A water filter is a must-have due to Scotland’s abundance of water sources and rich wildlife. Filter or boil water for at least 3 minutes. This way some areas even allow you to carry none at all.
• A paper map is recommended for a good overview of the area, helping you find quick escape routes or alternative paths. And as a good practice for upcoming trails where you simply need it.
• Scotland is home to diverse wildlife, including deer, birds, and seals. Not a danger for you but maintain a respectful distance to avoid disturbance.
• Always check the weather before heading back on the trail.
• Due to remote areas with unreliable reception, especially for solo hikers, a satellite tracker is highly recommended and can be a lifesaver.
• A guidebook provides insights into upcoming terrain and helps you find suitable spots for your tent, considering the boggy areas where camping may be restricted.

With this comprehensive gear, you can hike with confidence, whether navigating through summer rains or winter storms. Stay safe and enjoy the adventure!