Tour du Mont Blanc

It’s possible to avoid the crowds on the Tour du Mont Blanc by hiking the variants. These lesser-walked epic sections are the most magnificent stages of the whole TMB but are tougher than the main trail, so are only for experienced hikers.

The TMB’s route is varied, passing through inhabited valleys, stunning forests, and high mountain passes. Throughout, there are views of the Mont Blanc massif’s glaciers, which are sadly receding at an alarming rate.

Most people will travel to Chamonix in the French Alps to begin the TMB. You’ll find everything you could possibly need for your hike in this town of mountain lovers. The official starting point is the village of Les Houches, 7km away from Chamonix in the Vallée de l’Arve. You can walk clockwise or anti-clockwise, with anti-clockwise being the preferred choice for most people.

Walking anti-clockwise from Les Houches, there are two possible routes to hike stage 1 to Les Contamines-Montjoie. One is shorter and is preferred in bad weather. The other option is more epic, crossing a suspension bridge, passing the Bionnassay glacier, and taking you up over the Col de Tricot (2120m).

Stage 2 is tough for anyone who is still finding their fitness on the trail, crossing two high passes – the Col du Bonhomme (2329m) and the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2483m). From the second col, hikers can choose whether they leave the crowds to walk the variant route. The variant takes you over another pass, the Col des Fours (2665m).

You’ll cross from France into Italy on the easier stage 3 at the Col de la Seigne (2516m), and continue through Italy on stage 4 to the scenic hikers’ town of Courmayeur – a good place to take a rest day if needed. Stage 5 takes you up through the forest where you can choose between the main route and the high variant on the Mont de la Saxe ridge, with spectacular views of the south face of the Mont Blanc range.

You’ll cross over the Grand Col Ferret (2537m) into Switzerland on stage 6. From here you’ll leave the dramatic glaciers behind, at least for now. The trail descends into the Swiss Val Ferret, where Switzerland lives up to its stereotypical reputation, with cows with bells around their necks, green meadows, wildflowers, and beautiful forests.

Stage 7 to Champex is the easiest stage of the TMB, passing pastures. Stage 8 gives you the option of taking the Swiss variant, the Fenêtre d’Arpette (2665m), the most spectacular – and toughest – section of the whole TMB. The Fenêtre is a steep scramble up then down and takes you so close to the Trient glacier that you can almost touch it.

Stage 9 takes you back into France, over the Col de Balme (2191m). There’s the option of yet another variant to the Col, perfect if you’re craving being away from people. Mont Blanc reappears, as does Chamonix, far down in the valley below.

You’ll hike back through the higher slopes of the Vallée de l’Arve on the final stages, 10 and 11, and into the Réserve Naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges. There are a series of metal ladders, adding some excitement to the final sections! Many hikers take the route to Lac Blanc, a stunning, clear lake, popular with day hikers, with some of the best views of the trail. Finally, you’ll find yourself back in Les Houches, where you began.

The best time of the year to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc are July, August, and the first two weeks of September. Before July, you are likely to find snow on the passes. And if you want to hike at the end of September or the beginning of October, you may find that you’re caught in the first snows of the season.

Like any mountain hike, thunderstorms are a real risk on the TMB and usually roll in in the afternoon. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – after all, you don’t want to be caught on a mountain pass, or on a ridge, when there’s lightning.

The TMB is popular, but you shouldn’t underestimate how tough it is. Although it isn’t technical (other than on the Fenêtre d’Arpette variant), its steepness makes this trail a challenge for even the fittest hiker. If this is your first long-distance hike, it makes sense to train before you leave home to increase your fitness levels and stamina.

Stage 10 involves climbing ladders, which could be terrifying for those with a fear of heights. There are alternative, easier routes if you want to avoid the ladder section. If you’re hiking with a dog (perfectly possible if you are camping), you will also have to take a detour on stage 10 – not just because of the ladders, but because dogs are not permitted in the Réserve Naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges. This is the only detour you’ll have to take if hiking with a dog.

The TMB is, of course, busy, so if you get into trouble, there will likely be someone close at hand to help you. But if you’re hiking the high-level variants, it is essential that you find out about trail conditions just before you hike. On these variants, you might see no other hikers for some hours. Try to tell someone off-trail of your chosen route if hiking the variants.

Remember that thunderstorms can develop in the afternoons: keep an eye on the forecast and don’t get caught in a lightning storm high up on a mountain pass.

Stay hydrated! Water is abundant on the trail — you can fill up at any of the huts and guesthouses you pass. Carry at least 2 liters with you. Food, too, is available at all accommodations, but make sure you carry snacks.

It is almost impossible to get lost on the TMB. But it is sensible to carry a paper map and compass – if you don’t know how to navigate with these tools, learn before you leave home. Make sure you download offline maps onto your smartphone: mapy.cz is the map app of choice for hikers right now. It has the TMB marked in red on the app, so there’s no need to download a separate gpx file. If you’re primarily dependent on your phone to navigate, carry a power bank too. You don’t want to be caught with no battery life on the mountain.

Pack the right gear! Waterproofs are essential, as are warm baselayers. Hiking poles are advisable: after all, the elevation gain on this tail is around 10,000m, and there are steep descents. Poles will be essential for anyone with weak knees. If you buy new hiking shoes for this trail, make sure you break them in before leaving home to avoid blisters on the trail.

Respect the principles of Leave No Trace by minimizing your impact on the environment. Stick to designated trails, pack out all trash – including toilet paper – and respect wildlife and natural habitats.

The TMB website has good information about mountain safety and what to do in an emergency. Read up before getting on the trail.