GR 131 La Palma

Stage one begins at El Time, where you begin hiking from the bus stop. Technically, the stage begins at Puerto de Tazacorte, but the section between there and El Time is currently closed due to landslides. It is easy to take the bus to El Time, where you will be dropped off directly in front of the trailhead. From El Time, which is already at 600 meters, you began immediately climbing uphill. The climb starts by taking you through the outskirts of town. You’ll mostly be on trail, although there are short sections on the road. About a third of the way through the day, you will find a water spigot where you can filter water. The climb is about 1500 meters from El Time, and about 2000 from the actual starting point. This is a day that should not be taken lightly and can be done in 6 to 8 hours.

The stage ends at the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory, where there is a road, so you can arrange a taxi to the closest accommodation. Throughout the stage, you will climb higher and higher, and in doing so, climb above the clouds. Here, the views will change; before where you saw ocean, you are now confronted with a sea of clouds. This is a very special stage, and likely you will see very few people. The observatories located at this point are used by dozens of countries around the world for research, and this is considered one of the best places for astronomical work in the northern hemisphere.

Stage two begins at the observatory, where your taxi will drop you back off. From here, you will hike to El Pilar recreational area, which is a roughly 26-kilometer day. While the climbing is not as strenuous as the day before, you will still have quite a few smaller climbs as you trace the edge of the crater. This is a very beautiful section of the trail if you have clear weather and can see down into the national park. There is an unmanned hut, the Rifugio Punta de los Roques, at the 30-kilometer mark where many people have lunch. This serves as a great halfway point for the day, and some people decide to make the trail into four days and sleep here. There is also portable water, so you can refill.

From the hut, you will begin to hike downhill toward El Pilar, and the weather will start to change as you head into the forest. This is where it gets moodier and cooler, giving you a break from the sun that was likely very strong the days before. There’s also water at the 36-kilometer mark that you can filter, so you don’t need to carry too much when you begin on this day. Soon you will arrive to El Pilar, which is a recreation area in the middle of the forest. There are covered outdoor kitchens, non-potable water spigots, and lots of flat spots to set up your tent.

On the final stage, you will leave El Pilar and climb up through the forest in the morning. The climb is gradual and will be a good warm-up. After about an hour and a half, you will emerge above the clouds once again and walk among the volcanoes on the Ruta de los Volcanes. This path will take you between the many volcanoes in the area, where the ground turns into loose, black sand and lava fields. You will hike between the volcanoes, descending on sometimes very steep trail, for about 8 kilometers before the sand dunes turn into forest. Here, you will hike for about 5 kilometers until you reach the town of Los Canarios. There is a Spar in town and some restaurants where you can have a late lunch before the final section of the hike. Once you’re ready, you will hike toward the end point at Faro de Fuencaliente. This section is really unique and you will be back in the lava fields and surrounded by volcanic rock. When you finally reach the coast 6 kilometers later, you will be greeted by a delicious restaurant, beautiful salt flats and a charming red and white striped lighthouse.

The best time of the year to hike on La Palma is between November and March. This is when the weather is cool enough to safely hike. You will not have crowded trails when you hike, as the majority of the island’s tourists come from the cruise ships and only stay on the coast for day trips. Because of this, the trails remain mostly empty, save for some day hikers on the more accessible sections.

While this trail is fairly short, there is still a lot to prepare for hiking on La Palma. You will need to prepare your itinerary and accommodations ahead of time, as this is a difficult one to hike spontaneously. Since there is no food throughout the hike, you will carry all of your meals and snacks for the three days with you. Additionally, you will need to bring all of your camping and cooking supplies for the second night. And finally, you will absolutely need a water filter. There are places to refill, but none of them are treated water, so you will need a filter you trust!

Be aware that the weather changes quite a bit on this trek. In the first stages, when you are above 2000 meters, the weather is usually sunny and can be windy. However, when you descend into the center of the island, it is likely you will come under the cloud cover and have a much colder and wetter experience. Pack clothing for both scenarios to be safe.

The GR 131 is physically demanding, so it is best if you train before hiking it. Working on strength training and balance will help with the climbing, as well as endurance training for the long days and sandy sections. You can do this by taking long hikes at home, grabbing a loaded backpack and trying the stairmaster at the gym, or even going for rocky trail runs to work on your cardio.

The GR 131 La Palma is a difficult trail and should only be attempted if you have successfully hiked a long-distance trail before. It is difficult for a few reasons: the first is the terrain. This is a very steep trail and requires strong physical training beforehand. Even the descent on the final day is steep and you will need a good amount of balance. This, in addition to the usual heat and strong winds, makes it a challenge.

The second reason the GR 131 on La Palma is a difficult hike is because of the logistical arrangements. You will need to sort a hotel and a taxi for the first night/second morning, and carry all of your food for the entire three days. Luckily, there are a few water sources as you hike, but you will need to filter each of these, which can be time-consuming. Because of the camping on the second night, you will also need to carry all of your camping gear in addition to your food, which makes your pack much heavier.