Tserko Ri Peak Trek

First off, you catch a bus or jeep, following bumpy and dusty roads north for 6 to 8 hours. You leave the city chaos behind and arrive in Syabrubesi. It’s a simple roadside village and the beginning of your trail into the quiet mountains.

You step onto the trail and into the green. The first day, you pass through forests, follow the Langtang River, and cross suspension bridges to the small settlement of Bamboo. After Bamboo, the climb gets steeper. You trek through dense forests with red rhododendron trees and moss-covered rocks. Then, slowly, the forest gets brighter and the air gets cooler until you reach Ghoda Tabela. The name of the village means literally Horse Stable, once a military post. There’s not much light pollution. So, you have a great opportunity for stargazing here.

The valley opens up and reveals itself. You now suddenly walk in between massive walls, through wide glacial flats, past mani walls, chortens, and yak herds to Langtang Village. The village was entirely destroyed in the 2015 earthquake, but it has been partly rebuilt since then.

From Langtang Village, the views become bigger and more spectacular. The trail is flatter, with wooden bridges and stone houses. In Kyanjin Gompa, the air is thin and the mountains feel impossibly close. You can explore the old Buddhist Monastery, drink tea with yak milk, and rest.

Early morning, before dawn, you leave your backpack at the lodge and climb the steep and rocky trail to Tserko Ri. This part of the trail can be very slippery when there’s snow and ice. You should definitely use crampons or spikes. Trekking poles can be convenient here too. And don’t rush. The mountains aren’t going anywhere. At the top, you have a 360° mountain panorama. You made it! When the sky’s clear, you can see Langtang Lirung, Yala Peak, and Dorje Lakpa. Make sure you bring a good windbreaker jacket, as it can be pretty windy and cold up here.

You return to Kyanjin Gompa for breakfast and your bag, and begin your long descent to Lama Hotel. On the final day, you continue the descent to Syabrubesi, where the bus or a jeep awaits.

The best time of the year to trek to Tserko Ri Peak is in spring and autumn. From February through April, and from September through mid-December the temperature is quite pleasant, and the sky is clear, providing you with the best views.

In March and early April, the rhododendron forests are in full bloom, turning the mountain foothills pink, with a dash of white from magnolia trees here and there. In October and November, the people in Nepal celebrate several festivals. It really adds to the experience of our local culture as well.

Off-season trekking is possible, depending on the weather and temperature. However, I recommend hiring a local guide or at least being well informed by a local agency.

By mid-December, the temperature drops (way) below zero at night, and there is snow in the higher areas, making the trails slippery. Although the temperature and visibility may be lower, the trails are quieter. Reaching Tserko Ri will be challenging or even impossible.

If you were to take only 5 essential items, we would recommend sturdy hiking boots (with ankle support), polarized sunglasses (category 3 or 4) and sunscreen SPF 30+, a warm sleeping bag (to ensure a good night rest), a metal water bottle (to refill throughout the day, and to fill with hot water when you’re off to sleep), and finally a headlight for your pre-sunrise ascent to Tserko Ri.

If you trek in winter, trekking poles and a set of crampons or spikes are essential too. Especially the last part to Tserko Ri can be very slippery when there’s snow and ice.

When you’re at high altitude, you can get Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). And it is no joke. Every year, people die of altitude sickness. And many deaths are preventable. Therefore, I highly recommend that you learn the symptoms and tell your companions about them.

Symptoms include headache, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, coughing, fatigue or weakness, loss of appetite, trouble sleeping, and shortness of breath. You can develop symptoms when you’re above 2,500 m (8,000 ft). From this point on, you should ascend no more than 500 m (1,640 ft) per day. This gives your body the opportunity to acclimate to the thinning air.

Staying hydrated is key. Avoiding coffee and alcohol can help as well, since they’re diuretic and sedative. They make you pee more and sleepy, which can mask the symptoms. Also, make sure you keep eating properly, three meals a day. Garlic soup and fresh ginger lemon tea can also support your body acclimatizing and beating the symptoms.

Experiencing symptoms? The #1 treatment for altitude sickness is descent.

Guide & porter

Consider hiring a local mountain guide for your trek to Tserko Ri Peak. Trails aren’t always well marked, phone signal is unreliable, and locals along the way may not speak English. A guide knows the area, helps in case of an emergency and keeps you safe.

There’s even more. Guides have local connections and arrange beds in busy places. They know which kitchen is clean and which meal is fresh. Plus, let’s not forget that by hiring a guide, you directly support local families.

Note: if you hire a guide and porter via a trekking agency, make sure the companies pay them proper wages. And make sure you tip your guide and porter.

Don’t feel uncomfortable about hiring a porter. For them, it is an important step in their career towards becoming a mountain guide. Additionally, porters who work for locals easily carry extremely heavy loads and are poorly paid. Porters who work for travellers receive better wages and should carry no more than 16 kg (35 lbs).

Your porter will probably walk at his own pace, for his comfort. Therefore, I recommend you carry a daypack to keep the essentials you might need during the day.

The difficulty is moderate because it has a safe trail that is not too long per day. There are also many teahouses along the trail where you can stop to eat and sleep. This route does not include a high pass. However, you’ll ascend to a higher altitude quite rapidly. The final day to Tserko Ri is challenging.