Svaneti Trekking

The first stage starts with climbing out of Mestia. As you leave town, you’ll have a great view of its many towers, which are Georgian defense structures that are iconic for the region and sometimes still inhabited. The climb will be gradual, but you’ll hike about 650M in the first hours. The good news is there’s a small stand at the top where you can buy cold drinks! Our favorite was the pear-flavored lemonade. From there, you’ll descend toward the river and your guesthouse for the night. Be sure to follow the (sometimes sparse) signs for this bit. Along the river can be muddy, so it’s helpful to use a trekking pole for balance. We stayed at the Tanana/Dodo guesthouse in Zhabeshi and recommend it: great food, kind, funny hosts, and comfy beds.

Leaving Zhabeshi is when the real climbing begins. You’ll ascend about 800M straight from town on steep foothills. The views will be worth it, but it’s 100% recommended to pack extra water and start early so you’re not climbing in the heat of the day. When you’re about 3/4 through the climb, there will be a cafe with cold drinks for a break. Finally, you’ll reach the top and have views of the high, snow-covered peaks as you descend toward Adishi. The descent, unlike the climb, is gradual and forested. You’ll be able to enjoy shade and views as you reach Adishi. The town is sparse, but if you’re there at the right time of year, you’ll likely see piglets and puppies running around the streets, a great welcoming committee!

Stage three is the longest of the trek. The signs will point you toward Iprari, which is about one hour before Lalkhori. However, there aren’t many guesthouses in Iprari, so most hikers end up in Lalkhori. Start early to beat the heat in the valley. You’ll hike on a very gradual incline for about 1.5 hours before you reach the river. Here, there are men with horses for hire to cross, which we found to be a good option to avoid any accidents, as the water is glacial runoff and flows very fast. Once you cross the river, you’ll begin a 500M ascent to the Chkhunderi pass (2655M) with the best views of the entire trek. It’s steep, but there are some shaded sections, and you’ll sometimes have the breeze from the Adishi glacier to cool you.

Once you reach the top, you’ll have a few options to climb further for more views or to begin your descent. This is the most spectacular section of the hike, so take your time here! Once you’ve soaked it in, you’ll descend toward Lalkhori on single-track paths. About 1.5 hours before you reach the village, there will be some cafes with snacks and cold drinks as a treat! We stayed at Guesthouse Robinzon in Lalkhori and thought it was great: comfy rooms, delicious food, kind hosts.

The final stage has a few options to reach Ushguli. We hiked up about 350M to reach a single track and avoid road walking. The path was forested and easy, with some small, wavy hills after the main ascent. You’ll have some final views before you’re led back to the road for the final 45 minutes into Ushguli. Look out for the trail that’s directly above the road on the left side for the most part of this! Ushguli is very special, with so many of the old structures still standing. You can even climb to the top of the Queen Tamar Tower on the hill once you arrive for final views of the region.

The best time of year to hike in the Svaneti is from late June through early September. The trek goes by the Adishi glacier, which means that the temperatures can drop at night! However, it stays relatively warm/hot throughout the season during the days. The trek isn’t technical and doesn’t go above 3000 meters, so you can hike snow-free into September. You’ll also need to check on the road’s accessibility to Mestia, as this is very weather-dependent as it gets colder.

The Svaneti Trekking is a great hike to prepare for since you won’t need to bring much! As always, it’s important to bring a strong base kit with comfortable, weather-resistant clothing, good shoes, and plenty of water and snacks. Other than this, sun protection (hat, sunglasses, sunscreen) and a basic first aid kit will be helpful.

One river crossing after Adishi can be very strong and deep, going up to waist-high for many hikers. This can be tricky, and usually men hang around the river with horses that can take you across. We did this and found it to be a viable option for staying drier than if we had waded across on foot. This is your choice, but be smart and assess how fast the water is flowing and your comfort levels before making a snap decision.

The trail is listed as moderate for the more strenuous climbs sprinkled throughout the way. While the days are short (sometimes only 10km), you’ll find that 2-3 hours of that is spent on an incline. It’s important to prepare mentally, fuel and hydrate well, and adequately prepare for the amount you’ll sweat as you hike uphill! Otherwise, the trek is not technically difficult and is okay for new or inexperienced hikers ready for a challenge.