GR54 Grand Tour des Écrins

From La Grave, the trail starts with a moderate climb through alpine meadows and forests toward the Refuge de l’Alpe du Villar d’Arène. This stage has fantastic views of La Meije and its glaciers. The next day, you will hike to the Col d’Arsine, where the high peaks will likely lure you into a visit to the glacial Lac d’Arsine before you start on a long descent. You’ll go down, following the mountain stream Le Petit Tabuc, to the valley of La Guisane and Monêtier-les-Bains.

Stage three, from Monêtier-les-Bains to Vallouise, involves a scenic climb up Col des Grangettes and a descent into the valley. Here, you’ll experience a mix of rugged mountains, alpine meadows, and classic French alpine villages. C’est la vie belle! On the way from la Vallouise to the Refuge Pré de la Chaumette, you are going to cross the highest pass on the route – Col de l’Aup Martin. The good news is that you’ll have had a few days to warm up your muscles before this. The tough news is that it doesn’t get easier! From there, the next stage, from Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to Refuge Vallonpierre, takes you across three mountain passes to Lake Vallonpierre.

From Refuge Vallonpierre to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudémar, the landscapes switch from alpine highlands to green valleys. The long descent is challenging but rewarding, with a valley including multiple waterfalls as well as the village of La Chapelle-en-Valgaudémar, which is the perfect place to relax after a hard day of hiking.

After la Chapelle en Valgaudemar, there’s also an option for experienced hikers looking for a challenge to leave the main path to take a rocky variant of the GR 54. Their effort will be rewarded with spectacular views over the Valgaudemar Valley and the southern faces of Mount Olan. But it is important that you assess the weather before you do this!

Due to the steep ascents and descents, the next day is also physically demanding. The effort is worth the breathtaking landscapes, with glaciers, rugged peaks, and picturesque valleys.

The stage from Refuge des Souffles to Col de Vaurze includes the high alpine terrain of Col de Vaurze as well as the peaceful beauty of the Désert de Valjouffre. It is one of the more remote stages of the Tour des Ecrins. Between Valjouffrey and Valsenestre, there is a significant amount of ascent and descent, through meadows, forests, and rugged high-altitude terrain. Col de Côte Belle will give you a glimpse of the next day’s stage, the Col de la Muzelle. From Valsenestre, you will set off for the last big climb of the tour up the vertical Col de la Muzelle and Lake Muzelle.

The next day a long descent guides you slowly back to civilization. This second variant will give you closer encounters with the mountain economy and its heritage as it leads you to the village of Mizoen. From Mizeon, the path then takes you through the Romanche Valley, into the Vénéon Valley before it rises in altitude til the Lac du Chambon and its dam. This stage ends at the refuges of Les Mouterres and Le Fay at the foot of the Emparis plateau.

The last stage takes you back to the mountain village of La Grave, which is famous for mountaineering and skiing. The route includes some steep sections but also a relatively easier final descent into La Grave. It offers some final stunning views of the glaciers, peaks, and meadows of your earlier days.

The best time to hike the Grand Tour des Écrins is in summer/ between the end of June and mid-September when the mountain passes are clear of snow and the refuges are open. If you manage to have flexibility in your schedule, then it is best to try to avoid July, as this is one of the busiest times on the trail, as the French have their annual holidays.

Tour des Écrins is a challenging hike that requires experience in alpine terrain, surefootedness, and proper equipment. To prepare, invest in the right hiking gear, including comfortable, supportive footwear with a good grip, good hiking clothing, such as warm base layers and a hardshell rain jacket, hiking poles, a well-fitted backpack, and essential equipment like maps, GPS devices (or the GPX on your mobile), and a first-aid kit. If you’re not sure what to pack, you can check out our comprehensive gear list for long-distance trails.

If you decide to go lightweight and stay in the refuges, you will still need to bring a light sleeping bag, in addition to the provided blankets, a headlamp, and earplugs for a restful night.

The weather in the high mountains can change rapidly. Always check the trail conditions and local weather forecasts, be prepared for all conditions, including rain, sun, or snow, and alter your itinerary if needed. If you’re not sure about the conditions, ask a hut warden. They are likely to have the best recommendations and know the area well.

Stay properly hydrated and nourished. Check you have enough water and snacks to maintain energy levels and prevent dehydration and exhaustion. Bring at least two liters of water with you. Especially in remote sections or near livestock grazing areas, it is recommended to use a water filter or purification tablets.

Respect the principles of Leave No Trace by minimizing your impact on the environment. Stick to designated trails, take all your trash with you, and show respect for wildlife and natural habitats.

Tour des Erins is a difficult hiking trail with high-altitude passes and rugged mountain terrain. Therefore, it requires a good level of fitness and experience in alpine conditions. If you are uncomfortable with being in alpine conditions for so long, you can check out other hiking in France for something that is comparable.