Karhunkierros

The trail starts in Hautajärvi, at a small cafe and visitor center. The first five easy kilometers are outside the National park and go through managed forests. After entering the National Park, the forest changes, becoming more varied in both species and age. Keep an eye out for the large ant hills; some are over a meter tall.  After a while, the first shelter makes a beautiful first stop, with a good view over the Savinajoki river, which you will follow all the way to the Savilampi hut. A short side trail brings you to Rupakivi Rock, one of the special sights along the route. From the Savilampi hut, there are some short side trails on both sides of the Oulanka canyon. Highly recommended for their spectacular views.

Soon, you will arrive at the historic Taivalköngäs hut (built in 1900) and its nearby campsite, where the trail crosses the Oulankajoki river via three swingbridges over the rapids, with beautiful views guaranteed. After another eight kilometers, you’ll reach the Oulanka Visitor Center. If it’s open, it’s well worth a visit: there you’ll find informative displays about the park, as well as a café serving coffee and lunch. From here, a busy, broad trail brings you to the next highlight: Kiutaköngäs rapids carved in red rocks. Slowly, the river will change its character: not carving in rock but meandering in thick layers of sand. It is very visible at the next hut: Ansakämppä hut.

From here, the trail leaves the river and heads toward the halfway point, just before the Jussinkämppä hut, which is nicely situated at the shores of a lake. After another 5 kilometers, you will reach the third river: Kitkajoki. The trail follows it upstream through a sometimes narrow valley just next to the river. Soon, you’ll arrive at the popular day-hike section known as the Pieni Karhunkierros (“Small Bear Trail”). A long swingbridge brings you to the other side of the river, followed by a climb high above the canyon, rewarding you with some good views. The Siilastupa hut is at the shore of the river with a great view of the Jyrävâ waterfall.

After one kilometer from the Siilastupa hut, there is a side trail to the beautiful Myllykoski water mill and rapids. Beyond this point, the trail leaves the National Park. The next seven kilometers are the dullest of all and will bring you to the Porontimajoki hut. Fortunately, the old-growth forest returns after this hut. From here, you begin the ascent of the first of four hills: Vattuvaara, Iso Kumpuvaara, Kontainen, and Valtavaara. Valtavaara is the highest point and is above the treeline. Here, a totally different landscape shows itself with panoramic views if you’re lucky with the weather, green forests, and lakes as far as you can see. Also, the endpoint comes into view, including the ski slopes and the Ruka tower. Perhaps it’s best to forget those last few “ugly” kilometers and hold onto the memories of the other 80 km of old-grown forest and rivers.

The only time of the year you can hike the Karhunkierros is during the snow-free period between the end of May and October. Snow melt can inundate parts of the trail from the end of April into May. After mid-August, the number of mosquitoes decreases considerably. A very special and beautiful time is during autumn, when the trees are changing color, approximately mid-September.

The Karhunkierros trail is extremely well signposted. Every kilometer has a metal sign with both the kilometers done and to go and the coordinates. In addition to these new signs, there are also the older orange dots on the trees and signs at crossings. For fans of printed maps, Calazo has an excellent map on Tyvek.

Bring a tent and be prepared to sleep in a tent, as the open wilderness on this trail can be busy. The huts have space for 10 to 20 people, and the half-open shelters offer even less space. You should also bring food for the entire trail, as these huts do not offer meals, and don’t even have running water.

It’s an easy-to-moderate hike. The tracks are well-maintained and clearly signposted, with boardwalks across marshes and swingbridges over rivers. Some sections have plenty of tree roots and/or boulders that require a bit of attention. The most serious parts are the four hills on the southern side, with some steep sections. Don’t underestimate this otherwise easy trail: the long stretches of boulder-hopping and numerous short ascents can add up. However, if you have basic fitness and hiking endurance, this trail should be suitable for more people.